Riding groomed pistes is great. But there comes a time when every skier or snowboarder eyes that off-piste and just has to go explore.
Luckily here in Europe we do have some great ski resorts with access to some great backcountry terrain – in fact arguably some of the best in the world. If you’re hankering for a bit of off-piste, heres our pick of the best options.
1. Chamonix, France
We have to kick off our list with the King of European backcountry resorts. The Vallee Blanche is the longest lift served unpisted run, and unless you’re an expert skier and ideally a local, you will need to hire a guide to get the most of this run. That’s around 22kms from top to bottom, with some proper gnarly terrain ending on the Mer de Glace glacier. Sadly these days you can’t ski back to town due to that melting glacier.
Besides Vallee Blanche, Chamonix also offers one of the most popular and accessible off-piste ski areas at Grand Montets/Argentiere. Arguably the resorts at La Tour/Vallorcine and Brevent-Flegere also fit the bill, but these are less off-piste focused and more traditional resorts.
Read our review of Chamonix.
2. La Grave, France
Small but mighty, this all backcountry resort in the Isere Alps offers 2,300 metres of vertical with the peak at 3,600m. That’s higher than most other European ski resorts already. There is one lift taking you up the mountain and then a smaller tow lift which takes you across the glacier to the highest point.
The descent then takes you down open mountain terrain and through trees back to the small village of La Grave. This is very much high intermediate to expert territory, so don’t go dragging your girlfriend here to teach her the basics.
La Grave’s proximity to Les Deux Alpes and Alpe d’Huez makes it a good option for a day trip or two from these larger and more accessible resorts.
3. Verbier, Switzerland
The biggest Swiss ski resort and the one with the most lift-served off-piste too, this is a beast for backcountry tourers. There are several yellow (ungroomed) runs across the 4 Vallees resort which offer accessible off-piste style terrain. It can be a bit gnarly if there hasn’t been any snow lately.
Mont Fort is the feature here, 3,300 metres of almost entirely open backcountry terrain. You’ll likely find fresh lines here days after snowfall. For those looking for something a little less hairy, Bruson is the smaller and lower resort which offers a nice mix of powder fields and tree runs too.
All in all, Verbier is a Mecca for anyone looking for serious European backcountry skiing and snowboarding.
Read our Verbier ski resort review.
4. St Anton/Lech-am-Arlberg, Austria
Austria’s biggest ski area is a monster in almost every sense. The on-piste here is world class, as is the apres ski (which most people head here for). But it’s the access to almost unlimited off-piste within the resort area that draws the serious riders. Valluga’s north peak is where freeride hunters go, and it’s known for access to powder fields, steep descents and almost limitless opportunities to explore.
If you’re venturing to Valuga then a guide is a must. But if you’re not looking to go deep into the backcountry, you’ll find plenty to amuse you within more accessible range of the main runs, especially within a few days of fresh pow.
With the Valluga peak at 2,800 metres, don’t let the relatively low altitude fool you – Austrian resorts tend to be lower than their Swiss and French counterparts but no less snow sure.
5. Tignes-Val d”Isere, France
It’s no longer known as ‘Espace Killy’, apparently, but this huge high altitude ski area offers a massive draw for serious skiers and snowboarders. With the added benefit of some of the best apres ski in Europe (this is the home of the infamous Folie Douce after all).
There are officially 300kms of pisted terrain between these two resorts, but there is also access to 3,200 hectares of backcountry. From La Grande Motte at 3,400 metres, to tree line riding around the resorts, off-piste hunters will be spoiled for choice. This is also nice and high altitude so you’ve got the snow reliability here too.
6. Monterosa, Italy
This stunning ski area in Italy’s Aosta Valley region even has an area named ‘Freeride Paradise’, which gives you a clue of what to expect. On paper, this isn’t the biggest ski area, clocking up 143kms of official terrain. But that backcountry is what draws visitors, with lush powder fields and valleys to explore.
Champoluc is the main town in the area, but those looking for the best access would be better in the central Gressoney-La Trinité. The Indren Glacier sits at over 3000 metres, offering snow reliability and almost guaranteed fresh tracks for those brave enough to venture up here.
7. Solden, Austria
Almost any ski area in Austria will offer access to some incredible off-piste terrain. Solden gets our vote for the mix of high altitude, glacier riding, one of the longest top to bottom pisted runs in Austria – AND access to lots of excellent backcountry.
Officially there are 143kms of pisted slopes here, with the peak at 3,340m and lots of opportunity to hit the off-piste across the resort. Some might argue that this isn’t the best off-piste in Austria, but the mix of terrain makes this a winner for us. And, this being Austria, the apres is pretty banging too.
8. Zermatt, Switzerland
Switzerland’s iconic resort obviously offers top grade backcountry for those hunting for it. As well as the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, which offers plenty of powder in season, there are also numerous yellow itinerary trails which are ungroomed and essentially in-resort off-piste.
As if that wasn’t enough, the terrain here offers almost unlimited access to some of the most stunning backcountry in Europe. This is a big resort, and people do regularly get caught in avalanches and adverse weather around here, so if you’re looking to do a Zermatt backcountry excursion we strongly recommend hiring a professional local guide.
For those looking for the same experience, but with a slightly lower budget, stay in Breuil-Cervinia instead on the Italian side. Same terrain, Italian prices instead of Swiss.
9. Andermatt, Switzerland
Known for her long season and incredible backcountry, Andermatt is yet another freeriding paradise in Switzerland. Gemsstock is the place to go for top class mountain descents.
Thanks to a unique microclimate, it’s a powder magnet that often receives double the snow of its neighbours. But it’s worth noting that this isn’t a place for the faint of heart; the terrain is steep, north-facing, and pretty gnarly in places. Classic routes like the Felsental and Giraffe offer massive vertical drops through technical couloirs and wide-open glaciers.
Another appeal of Andermatt is it’s traditional village charm – although the resort was acquired by Vail a few years back – so enjoy it while you can.
10. Sainte-Foy, France
If battling from fresh tracks in nearby Val d’Isere doesn’t appeal, this might be the resort for you. Sainte-Foy Tarentaise is a small but mighty resort, popular with locals and powder hunters. Although the resort officially covers just 43kms of marked trails, the north facing terrain and access to tree line skiing make this a hidden gem of the freeriding community in Europe.
Sainte-Foy also offers three ungroomed zones, Natur’Morion, Natur’Crystal Dark and Natur’Shappur’s Paradise. These wild but accessible sections offer some genuine backcountry vibes without needing to venture way off-resort.
11. Dolomiti Superski, Italy
The vast Italian megaresort offers perhaps the most lift access for your money of any ski resort in the world. Yup, 1,200kms of terrain with one pass! So while you’re unlikely to run out of lift served pisted trails any time soon, you do also get access to some stunning backcountry too.
The Sella Massif, accessed from Val Gardena, is the heart of the action, featuring the legendary Val Mezdi, often called the “Vallée Blanche of the Dolomites” – a long, stunning canyon flanked by sheer 500m rock walls. For high-altitude experts, the Marmolada Glacier in Arrabba provides massive vertical drops and reliable powder deep into the spring.
12. Baqueria-Beret, Spain
While the Pyrenees might not be quite as reliable for snowcover as the Alps, on their day they can easily be the match for their more famous cousin. And the Spanish resort of Baqueria-Beret is where to come to explore the best of the region.
With 166kms of lift served trails, this is already the King of Spanish ski resorts. But the Baciver sector, once reserved for ski mountaineers, is now the resort’s freeriding playground. The legendary Escornacabres couloir is also a magnet and a rite of passage around these parts, while the Bonaigua area offers wild, untracked valleys.
All of this, plus great Spanish food and drink for your apres ski!
Tips for backcountry riding
As any serious skier or snowboarder knows, off-piste and backcountry riding comes with risks. So preparation is key. Booking a guide is obviously the wise choice, especially in a ski resort you don’t know well. People do die every year from avalanches and accidents off-piste, so take precautions.
Tell people where you’re going and when you’ll be back. And, of course, pack avalanche equipment including a shovel, transceiver and a probe – at the very least. You can also these days get avabags, with airbags in the event of being engulfed by an avalanche.
